Chamar- the Brand

When Rihanna casually sat on a striking red chair at Design Miami, it wasn’t merely another instance of celebrity fashion. On this occasion, the real highlight wasn’t Rihanna—yes, we understand it’s unexpected—it was indeed the chair. Identified as the Flap Chair, this innovative piece is produced by Chamar Studio, a design brand based in Mumbai that focuses less on trends and more on transformation. Chamar is a northern Indian caste whose traditional occupation involves tanning leather. The term originates from the Sanskrit word charmakara (“skin worker”). The Chamars are segmented into over 150 subcastes, all distinguished by well-organized panchayats (governing councils). Individuals from the caste are classified within the officially recognized Scheduled Castes (also referred to as Dalits); because their ancestral roles necessitated handling deceased animals, the Chamars were among those historically labeled as “untouchables”.

Artist and fashion designer Sudheer Rajbhar from Mumbai crafted a brand by challenging caste stereotypes in India while producing luxury items that avoid leather by utilizing recycled materials instead. “Chamar”, which is considered a derogatory term based on caste, has traditionally been directed at artisans engaged in the tanning and leather sectors. Rajbhar’s brand Chamar embraces the term to challenge and dismantle the social hierarchy. He has collaborated with Dalit and Muslim leather artisans in Dharavi (a large underprivileged area in Mumbai), breaking historical norms that have associated these craftsmen with shame and poverty.

In 2015, the Indian government implemented a "beef ban" that severely impacted the Dalit community. The beef ban (which restricts individuals in most of its 28 states from engaging in leather work) exacerbates the vulnerabilities experienced by those in the leather goods sector. By substituting leather with repurposed tire innertubes, designing premium handbags and shoes, and adopting the name Chamar for a luxury brand, the design collective aims to reclaim this unique Indian craft for its rightful creators. Here, Rajbhar outlines the vision and objectives for the Chamar brand.

Sudheer Rajbhar is not merely a designer. He is an artist by trade, an activist by nature, and a founder driven by a mission. For him, the aim of design is to discover solutions—whether it involves experimenting with innovative materials or addressing the class divide in society. Nevertheless, in a world that often resorts to violence as a means to resolve issues, Sudheer skillfully channels the power of art to counteract injustices. Born and raised in slums and well-acquainted with caste-based bias, Sudheer has collaborated with numerous leather artisans from the Chamar community who were impacted by the industrial leather ban in 2015.

He retrained them to adapt to a new material that he created from recycled waste rubber, consequently founding CHAMAR studios - a brand that produces stylish, gender-neutral, cruelty-free accessories. In 2020, Sudheer organized an exhibition titled ‘We are here because you are there’, which showcased the assistants of artists who often face exploitation and whose contributions remain unrecognized.

Sudheer in dialogue with Sarah Jee - a Senior Curator of Global Fashion and Textiles:-

Sarah Jee: Your project represents both social change and a transformation in design and medium. Are you intentionally embracing the term Chamar?

Sudheer: Leather craftsmen, they bear a label on their heads: Chamar. This denotes leather and individuals engaged with deceased animals through generations, including Muslim and Dalit communities. They are from lower castes, and India remains traditional regarding these issues. I initiated this as a community art endeavor. I produced small bags, featuring "Chamar" inscribed in every language of India and the globe. I carried a bag on my shoulder and traveled from village to village, where people inquired, “why are you doing this? ” I explained our initiative to them. The artisans expressed their pride, stating, “We’re going to be recognized like a brand and people will acknowledge our skills. We can be on par with Gucci.” Therefore, indeed, social transformation is possible.

He also launched a project under his Chamar Foundation, ‘The Reclaimed Tote’ where local artisans teamed up with 66 prominent designers in the industry to reinvent a distinctive tote bag using leftover scraps from their workshops. The initiative emphasized inclusivity, sustainability, and the restoration of dignity for the Chamar community.

Chamar Studio offers a diverse variety of meticulously crafted minimalist bags, purses, belts, and other related items. The studio produces reasonably priced designer goods, with the most expensive items starting at around INR 39,000 and the lowest prices beginning at INR 1,500. Furthermore, Chamar Studio is not solely a private enterprise, but a business that advocates for social justice. Up to 50% of revenue is returned to artisans through the Chamar Foundation, Rajbhar's charitable organization. Rajbhar holds that sustainability must be comprehensive and should foster awareness of, and support for, the artisans, their culture, and history. Years of oppression have compelled artisans to quantify their artistry and skills. They have developed a mentality that generating more will result in better compensation. The Chamar Foundation and Studio are instructing them to emphasize quality and demand fair wages.

Ritika Mishra is pursuing Political Science at Jamia Millia Islamia

Edited by- Nausheen Ali Nizami